WILD ATLANTIC SALMON IN IRELAND

In Ireland we have a long tradition of producing and consuming smoked Wild Atlantic salmon; this is intricately linked to our cultural heritage and strongly associated with dispersed coastal communities use of the rich resources of the natural environment. How much longer this traditional product will be available is in doubt and those of us involved in its production are working at ways to ensure its survival.

Background:
Ireland is one of the last states currently permitting the continued commercial fishing of wild Atlantic salmon. Many frown upon this fishery and believe that the only way for the salmon to survive is through a complete cessation of commercial fishing. In these circumstances, Ireland has a strong responsibility to seek the sustainable exploitation of this already seriously depleted (not to say decimated) resource, both to ensure that she is not an environmentally reckless neighbour, but also to safeguard livelihoods associated with the fishery and the unique cultural inheritance of this environmental resource.

The extraordinary lifecycle of this species brings its own challenges for successful fisheries management. Wild Atlantic salmon (Salmo Salar) hatches in freshwater and spends up to the first three years of its life in rivers, before heading out to sea. Once at sea the fish undertake an epic migration of several thousand miles; travelling well up into the North Atlantic ocean on a mammoth feeding spree of oil-rich smaller species such as capelin, sand eel and krill.

After a period of up to two years at sea, the fish finally return to their freshwater spawning grounds from where they originally were bred. On re-entering the rivers, the fish (weighing between 3kg to 15kg each) may spend several months before they actually spawn. During this time they stop eating and live off their stored fat reserves.

While they have formed a significant part of the human diet since the last Ice Age, wild salmon stocks have declined since the Industrial Revolution and are now almost wiped out from the Baltic Sea to the Bay of Biscay and in North America. Precise reasons for this decline remain disputed but undoubtedly include over-exploitatation, predation by seals and other predators whilst in the oceans, and the decline in quality of both marine and freshwater environments. Salmon are particularly sensitive to environmental conditions and where environmental quality declines so will fish numbers.

Smoking was used as a means of preserving surplus fresh salmon catches in Ireland arguably for thousands of years. Initially, the technique must have relied solely on smoke drying since there was no trade in salt. However, as international trade grew and techniques developed large quantities of a range of smoked and salted fish were exported from the country. Hanging salted fish to dry, generally above the hearth in the chimney (hence the 'smoking') is a well-known tradition within individual homesteads.

In the ISWAS Presidium we are focussed on the smoked Atlantic salmon, but we are clearly concerned for the wild salmon fishery.

Protection through Regulation:
The Irish Government seeks to protect the fishery primarily through restricting fishing effort. Since 2002 a quota system of Total Allowable Catches has been introduced, and fishing is limited by licence. The quota in 2002 was set at just under 220,000 fish, in 2003 this fell to just over 180,000, and in 2004 fell further to just over 160,000. In each year the total catch recorded failed to match that permitted. In 2005, it is anticipated that the TAC will be set at around 130,000 fish, a figure which is in accord with the scientific advise available to government.

- The most significant catch is taken by drift net (over 75%) now within 6 nautical miles of the coast, where a maximum of just over 880 licences are issued nationally. This type of fishing is permitted only for four days a week during June and July, for seventeen hours per day. Net mesh sizes are limited (17.8cm in the round, 8.9cm stretched mesh), as is net depth (45 meshes), and maximum net length is generally between 732 m and 1,372m.

- Just over 550 draft (seine) net licences are issued for use between mid-May and the end of July, with snap nets and other licences (162 in total) also issued. In 2002 these fisheries accounted for 13% of catch.

- In addition to the commercial fishery, over 35,000 angling licences were issued this year for salmon and sea trout. The figures for 2001 indicate that the catch of 70 tonne was 11% of the total.

All fish caught are tagged and logged, with details returned to the relevant Regional Fishery Board. Much discussion is focused on the success of these controls and their enforcement.

Other Positive Protection:
However, successful conservation (and recovery) of the "King of Fishes" requires the commitment and full participation of all those involved in the fishery. In today's world of international markets, the fisherman - like the farmer, and all those primary producers harvesting nature's offerings - is subject to immense pressures of price and markets. If the fishermen are to husband these precious stocks sustainably, then all those in the chain of production and supply, including the final consumer, must recognise the true value of this species, in all senses of the word.

This translates to a very simple market strategy where price reflects value and wild Atlantic salmon must be highly prized. If that is the case, then the product whether fresh or smoked must command a premium price in the market place AND this premium price must be fairly shared amongst those involved in delivering the goods. In other words, the fishermen must receive financial benefit for prudent husbandry, which in real terms means that the relatively few fish that are caught generate high returns. (Clearly, there is an issue about elitism here, but if this approach is successful and stocks do recover, then a realignment of prices becomes possible at that stage and then wider consumption will be possible. However, we should recognise the real importance and value of food and be prepared to reflect this in the prices we pay, in this way securing a livelihood for producers.)

Such premium prices can only be justified if fish are landed in pristine condition and then handled with the care and expertise the fish deserve to ensure a first class product of excellence.

In Ireland there are significant moves to ensure that the fish are bled and iced on capture, and are removed immediately to processing facilities in chilled conditions. Two years ago our own micro smokery sourced heavy-duty ice storage tanks from Bord Iascaigh Mhara (the Irish Sea Fisheries Development Board) to distribute to the local small fishermen who supply us, and we supply ice to fishermen since there is no supply at any of the small local harbours. Last year a national initiative commenced which recognised the specific challenges of such a small-scale fishery and has begun to provide these resources to salmon fishermen, as part of an accredited quality assurance scheme.

In this way the salmon generate a valuable income and create the motivation amongst fishermen to preserve stocks rather than pillage them. Such a "common" resource, with free access, means that it is difficult to prevent "free riders" who seek short-term gain without thought for the future. The ongoing annual reduction in quotas, further limiting the numbers of salmon available, is likely to assist in the 'rarification' of the product. However, in such a situation it is also almost certainly true that fishermen seeking to police themselves have the best chance of making a significant impact on preserving stocks (and facilitating a recovery) than any alternative means, other than an outright ban on fishing.

The fishermen need to have ownership of their resource before they will be able to appreciate it properly. How this is to be done is open to debate, but the quotas and tagging is the first step to ownership.

These are small beginnings. In 1996 the Salmon Management Task Force reported that fishermen estimated they would need a minimum catch of 1,000 fish to repay their fishing efforts. In 2002 only 20 of over 1500 commercial licence holders caught over 1,000 fish. Clearly, at present there is a need to ensure that these small-scale fishermen can generate income from other sources, whether through fishing of other species, or other employment opportunities, or both. But a goal of successful management of fisheries should be the opportunity for these fishermen to return to fishing as a principal or sole occupation in time.

The tagging system that is in place for each salmon legitimately landed also provides us with the potential to provide the consumer with full knowledge of the product they purchase. Rather than focus on the "traceability" this delivers, it is important to demonstrate to the consumer the rarity value of each fish, its significance to a small-scale inshore fisherman, their livelihood, household and ultimately the local community, and the limited number of individuals who will handle the fish with skill and care to deliver it to them as sublime smoked salmon. Thus we can make greater use of the very small-scale nature of this fishery and its associated processing activities to explain its value.

The Bigger Picture:
Initiatives such as Slow Food's "Ark of Taste", the Presidium and, of course, Terra Madre, are important in bringing together all those involved with the food chain, harvesters, producers, consumers, and the scientists. Real communication between all of these is vital to protecting our environment and its resources. It's possible to involve the consumer in conservation and environmental protection by making them feel part of the effort, giving them the information to appreciate their potential impact, and demonstrating real commitment within the 'industry' to our environment. Again as an example, in our own smoke house we have done everything possible to ensure that all our operations are environmentally positive, or at least benign - this is true in relation to our dealings with fishermen, our treatment of wastes (using vermicomposting and wetlands disposal systems), building design and manufacture, and packaging and waste minimisation.

A wider appreciation by the public of the importance of food, how it is produced and provided to the consumer, is vital for the survival of the small-scale Irish Atlantic salmon fishery. This is being developed nationally and internationally by initiatives such as Slow Food, activities of non-governmental organisations, and media coverage of food related concerns. It is important that in our own small area we capitalise on this.

Overexploitation is not the only problem:
The threat to the wild Atlantic salmon stocks is unquestionably real. However, how much is due to overexploitation by fishermen is not certain. For instance, there are dramatic changes occurring out in the oceans. The loss of enormous tons of small wild fish being scooped up to feed the farmed fish must have an effect. We need to continue supporting efforts to understand why stocks decline. We know there are other factors involved including pollution, predation, and climate change.

Regulation in relation to pollution control is principally being delivered through the Nitrates and Water Framework Directives of the European Union. These two initiatives aim to protect surface, ground, estuarine and coastal waters. While undoubtedly ambitious and set to encounter many challenges over relatively lengthy timescales, these initiatives demonstrate that regulatory authorities recognise the need to protect water resources and, in the case of the Water Framework Directive, consider this in an holistic approach to environmental quality.

On a smaller scale, but with the potential for appreciable local gains are initiatives such as catchment management programmes that seek to involve all those operating within a catchment in a partnership approach to maintaining the quality of the freshwater environment. This positive approach has the advantage of maximum 'buy-in' by those involved who also acquire a powerful understanding of the potential problems and their own role in alleviating these.

We are able to act, to greater or lesser extent, and to take action in relation to threats facing this fishery. It is vital to demonstrate the commitment to doing this wherever possible. We should never underestimate the potential impact we can have, or the significance of being prepared and able to lead by example although this is rarely the easiest option.

Conclusion:
Finally, our efforts often feel like an uphill struggle against an inevitable closure of the fishery. Gaining commitment from all those necessary to secure sustainable fisheries management is certainly a challenge, but not one that we should run away from because what we stand to gain in preserving this activity is the preservation of a traditional livelihood, a cultural association with the 'salmon of knowledge', a gastronomic treasure, and a delight of the natural world.